Simonism

... lifted a 2D image from a photo on the web, converted it to a 3D svg file in "Convertio" (free software), put it into TinkerCad (also free) to make it 5mm high and 160mm wide and to add the two 3mm high joiners, then printed it in PLA on my trusty old Creality 10 - a four hour print. I'll give it a light sand and then paint it in silver / aluminium paint and maybe it will pass muster from a distance.
Have fun
Simon

Occasionally, you get one of those moments when a few things you've been working on for while come together nicely ... and it all fits. Well, the keys fit the keyways I cut on the axle I made, the wheel adapters, disc adapter and sprocket adapter all fit on their respective keys - and they all seem to be in the right place. So I'm a little chuffed - maybe a little drink tonight!
Have fun!
Simon

A good friend keeps a fair bit of stainless oddments - so I was able to fine some 19.5mm I.D. / 22.5mm O.D. tube - not a fantastically common size? Anyway, perfect for the bearing spacers on my front wheels, which use a 3/4" or 19.05mm axle spindle. These spacers are sometimes called "crush tubes" but you do not crush them. They are necessary to ensure that the bearings do not suffer a lateral stress from tightening the spindle nut, which would otherwise break or wear them in a very short time. I just turned off square ends at 82.5mm long, to suit my 16" Pit bike wheels - just a bees tit longer than the gap between the bearing bosses in the hub.

Might make some further progress on my flyscreen today, too.

Simon
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OK, so this is the mock-up of how I hope the Flyscreen will work (made with 10mm square - I still have to get the channel).

The brass ends that fit inside the tube will have small indents on their faces, in two positions that correspond to the two angles at which the screen may be set - and the mounting brackets will have small raised portions to engage with the indents.

10x10x1.5mm channel will be attached to the tube with a dozen or so self tappers (even this mock-up with just two screws is very strong). I have some 3mm and 6mm clear plexiglass and will decide which works best in a frame made of the channel - frame will be on bottom and sides only. Also need to decide whether to use silicon or rubber C-trim to surround the plexiglass.

Have fun
Simon

Getting it together - bit-by-bit. Engine, mount and torque converter are pretty much done; floor pan is done; pedals, throttle and cable, master cylinder, calliper mount and hose are done; seat is done; side bodywork is prepped and test fitted (much more bodywork to come later); steering, steering shaft and detachable wheel are done; wheels are done (hubcaps to come later); dash is done (instruments and ignition switch to come later).

Last big thing to do to get rolling is to shorten the 25mm axle stock down to 1020mm long and cut four 6mm keyways each 77mm long and two circlip grooves. This will take some care! Then put everything together properly and test drive. Then pull it all apart again and paint it. Oh, so much to do, so much to do!

Oh ... and I fit in it, too!

Excuse the photo-shopped picture - trying to hide my mess!

Have fun!
Simon

It seems my torque converter backplate was a "left hand" version when I needed a "right hand" one (or maybe vice versa?). Anyway, with the torque converter disposed the way I want it, I had to shave the backplate reinforcements a bit, to allow a nice path for the chain. I'll let you know if this causes the backplate to self-destruct under load!
Have fun!