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  •   Mick reacted to this post about 2 years ago
    Hoopla hoopla! First weld. Got a Unimig Viper 120 (they're tiny!). Had to fill in one hole in this 60T sprocket, as I have to drill another hole that overlaps that one. Decided to try welding it in. First weld (oh, OK, so I did drill three holes in a practice piece and tried those first ... and it kind of worked!). Like me - not pretty...
    Hoopla hoopla! First weld. Got a Unimig Viper 120 (they're tiny!). Had to fill in one hole in this 60T sprocket, as I have to drill another hole that overlaps that one. Decided to try welding it in. First weld (oh, OK, so I did drill three holes in a practice piece and tried those first ... and it kind of worked!). Like me - not pretty but should do the job.
    Have fun!
    Simon
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  •   Austin 7 Special commented on this post about 2 years ago
    The wheel adapters look like being a success. That's more than I can say for the ebay buggy axle, which was poor quality and not even true; about 3 - 4mm runout in the centre. So I sent it back.

    So I am now looking to source a 25mm dia 1000mm long axle with a 6mm keyway and circlip grooves on the ends. Any pointers, anyone? Alternatively,...
    The wheel adapters look like being a success. That's more than I can say for the ebay buggy axle, which was poor quality and not even true; about 3 - 4mm runout in the centre. So I sent it back.

    So I am now looking to source a 25mm dia 1000mm long axle with a 6mm keyway and circlip grooves on the ends. Any pointers, anyone? Alternatively, I could have one made. I doubt I could make one myself.

    Have fun!
    Simon
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    • I'm unfortunately not familiar with Bayside so could not really suggest anywhere to get steel from there. I was going to suggest if you are local youI'm unfortunately not familiar with Bayside so could not really suggest anywhere to get steel from there. I was going to suggest if you are local you could pop round and we could use my shop.

      Generally steel is steel, It's mostly sold by weight so you pay the same price as the next man unless you have a trade discount. The main difference with not buying an entire length is you also have to pay for the cut. Calling around and seeing if anyone has offcuts is always an option too. I generally do this when I just need small parts or I go and trawl through the offcuts bin in my local steel shop to see what I can find.

      One thing to consider is that bright bar is unfortunately more expensive than general round bar as it is already machined to size, so if you are trying to keep to a budget you could also just buy regular round bar and machine it yourself. This is a much cheaper option but obviously requires that you do the machining. You will save $$'s if you can do that yourself. You should also consider that you do not need to machine the entire length.

      You may struggle to turn the axle on a Myford, they have a very small headstock bore IIRC (3/4" ??) but not impossible to do if you have a fixed steady, just perhaps a little unorthodox (see photo).

      You can also mount a cutter in the chuck and the axle on the slide to mill the keyway. Milling is a common activity on the ML7. Supporting the free end is the real challenge. Might need a second pair of hands.

      There's heaps of info out there on work-holding using a Myford, they are very versatile machines and favoured by the model engineering crowd. Using a small machine to do big jobs is a path well trodden. If you get stuck feel free to sing out.


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    • Well, I bought my axle steel. 5.8m of 25mm 1020 bright bar - $80. Enough for maybe 5 axles. Should be be able to cut a keyway, one way or another.Well, I bought my axle steel. 5.8m of 25mm 1020 bright bar - $80. Enough for maybe 5 axles. Should be be able to cut a keyway, one way or another. I think that's all I need. No steps or threads required for my plan.

      Have fun!
      Simon
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    • You've encouraged me, Mick! I found that I have a vertical slide for the Myford, along with a vice and a 6mm milling bit. Also found a circlipYou've encouraged me, Mick! I found that I have a vertical slide for the Myford, along with a vice and a 6mm milling bit. Also found a circlip groove tool. No reason I can't cut the keyways myself - although it will be a bit jerry-rigged. My mate has a big lathe and I can cut the circlip grooves on that (the Myford doesn't have the bed length to handle a 1016mm long axle). More to come ...
      Have fun
      Simon
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    • Good stuff Simon. Those Myfords really are versatile little machines.

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    • It's early days and this is just a trial cut on the scrap end of my 25mm axle stock - but this does suggest that I may be able to cut the keyways IIt's early days and this is just a trial cut on the scrap end of my 25mm axle stock - but this does suggest that I may be able to cut the keyways I want, with a vise clamped to the vertical slide on the Myford! Woo hoo!
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  •   Tomaled2563 reacted to this post about 2 years ago
    OK, so I made my first part! Well, kind of - it's a wooden mock-up of the pair of adapters I'll make for my $90 wheel/tyres to fit the 25mm rear axle I'll use. The mock-up shows that it works but that I'll have to countersink the bolts coming through from the back of the adapter and into the wheel hub. I chose this side (92PCD) of the wheel...
    OK, so I made my first part! Well, kind of - it's a wooden mock-up of the pair of adapters I'll make for my $90 wheel/tyres to fit the 25mm rear axle I'll use. The mock-up shows that it works but that I'll have to countersink the bolts coming through from the back of the adapter and into the wheel hub. I chose this side (92PCD) of the wheel rather than the other side (100PCD) to attach to the adapter because the wheel hub is clearly stronger on this side. To be clear, I'll be changing the two existing 15x37x11 bearings in each rear wheel, and substituting four 25x37x7 bearings in each wheel (two each side), so the adapter does not carry any weight load, only the driving and braking load.
    Have fun!
    Simon
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    • Looks like a nice solution. A lot easier to make than what I put together as it requires no welding.
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  •   mainlinemick commented on this post about 2 years ago
    Got springs today. $25 for a pair. I hope to use them as front quarter-ellipticals. Each leaf is 45mm wide and 6mm thick.

    I ground off the retainers and pulled the 3 leaves apart ... and figured I'd used a ~400mm long section of the middle leaf.

    So I set up a test rig, clamped one spring to the bench and carefully measured the deflection at...
    Got springs today. $25 for a pair. I hope to use them as front quarter-ellipticals. Each leaf is 45mm wide and 6mm thick.

    I ground off the retainers and pulled the 3 leaves apart ... and figured I'd used a ~400mm long section of the middle leaf.

    So I set up a test rig, clamped one spring to the bench and carefully measured the deflection at the point where my axle will be, for a given load at that point. One spring sagged exactly 6mm for 5kg load.

    So with 2 springs it will sag half of that: or 3mm for 5kg. If my Kart weighs, say, 240kg all up (excluding the unsprung front wheels and axle) and if say 1/3 of this carried by the front axle, that's 80kg on the front axle or 16 x 5kg, so the springs (and body) will drop 16 x 3mm or ~48mm from its unweighted position when at rest, and drop a further 48 mm from a 1G "bump". Putting it another way - if someone about 80kg leant down hard on the front of the kart, they'd lower the front by about two inches.

    So I think I'll run with that and not chop the leaves in half lengthways. It seems to me that, using a spring as a cantilevered quarter-elliptical effectively halves its effective stiffness, compared to using it as a full semi-elliptical, supported at both ends. Makes sense because only half the spring is present and working.
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    • Good score. Sound like they should work pretty good.

      The calcs that I used included the length as part of the equation, so I think that you areGood score. Sound like they should work pretty good.

      The calcs that I used included the length as part of the equation, so I think that you are correct.
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    • Just looking at the pictures, might be good to put a panhard rod on the front axle to stop it walking. We used to fit them to the rear diffs on rallyJust looking at the pictures, might be good to put a panhard rod on the front axle to stop it walking. We used to fit them to the rear diffs on rally cars, made a huge difference to handling and stability. If you want fancy try a watts linkage. Looks great!  More ...
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    • fisher42 Thanks, I'll look into that. My first task will be understand what a panhard rod is, and does. It sounds good though. A watts linkage -fisher42 Thanks, I'll look into that. My first task will be understand what a panhard rod is, and does. It sounds good though. A watts linkage - looks even more complex. Damn, I was going for KISS, too!   More ...
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    • Panhard rod reduces the side to side movement of the axle. Pivoted from the body on one end and on the diff housing at the other. A watts link isPanhard rod reduces the side to side movement of the axle. Pivoted from the body on one end and on the diff housing at the other. A watts link is slightly different but probably a bit better. Pop in to you local library and look at the Ford (watts link) & Holden (panhard rod) manuals from the 1990's pre independent rear end.  More ...
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  •   Austin 7 Special commented on this post about 2 years ago
    Yesterday I ordered more bits! For the record and interest:

    Four wheels, tyres and tubes: New 16" cost $92 each (search "90/100 - 16" Inch Tire & Rim Rear back Knobby wheel BIGFOOT Dirt Pit Trail Bike" on ebay). These have 37mm bearings (but maybe 35mm is more versatile, see later note re spindles). Hub is 120mm wide, and 135mm wide counting...
    Yesterday I ordered more bits! For the record and interest:

    Four wheels, tyres and tubes: New 16" cost $92 each (search "90/100 - 16" Inch Tire & Rim Rear back Knobby wheel BIGFOOT Dirt Pit Trail Bike" on ebay). These have 37mm bearings (but maybe 35mm is more versatile, see later note re spindles). Hub is 120mm wide, and 135mm wide counting the raised bosses. They have a 4-bolt 92mm PCD disc mount on one side and 4-bolt 99mm PCD cog mount on the other. On the rear, I will use 25ID/37OD bearings for my 25mm axle. On the front I may use AZUSA 5/8" 6" long spindles at $102.09 shipped, on AmazonAU, with four (4) 5/8" to 3/4" sleeves, search "5/8" x 3/4" x 3" Shaft Adapter Pulley Bore Reducer Sleeve Bushing Sheave & Key", jut over $40 shipped on aliexpress, and 3/4" ID to 37mm OD bearings, search "MR190537-2RS Bearing (10PCS) ABXG NB Spain axis bearing repair parts MR190537 190537 (6904 / 19.05-2RS) 19.05X37X9 Bearing" $36.11 shipped, on aliexpress for 10 of them.

    "Trkimal Steering Wheel, 300mm Steering Wheel with Cap for Taotao Go-Kart & Dune Buggy Racing Cart Accessory": $56.12 shipped on AmazonAU

    "Steering Assembly 20mm Complete Brand New w/Black Countersunk Washers": $145 on CPR Karts, plus some extra tie rods just in case $22.90, free shipping. I think I may need to lengthen the steering column.

    "Vintage Type GO Kart W.A.O. Brake & Throttle Pedals": $42.05 on AmazonAU

    "900mm 25mm Axle keyway running full length flexible sprocket disc bearing 4x110": $178 + $35 shipping on ebay. I'm reverse the splined 4-bold wheel hubs to secure my wheels - that is, reverse the splined hubs and have the wheel on the inside of them (and use the 110 to 100PCD adapters, below) rather than on the outside as normally intended for go-karts.

    "2pcs 15 12x1.5 4x110 to 4x100 Wheel Spacer For Daihatsu Mira L200 L500": $71 shipped on ebay to adapt the 110PCD wheel hubs that come with the axle to the 100PCD on my wheels. I plan to use one (1) driving/braking wheel but be able to lock up the other rear wheel as an option.

    "VEVOR 3/4" Clutch Go Kart Torque Converter 10T12T Complete CVT Combo 30 Series": $85.99 shipped, on ebay

    "7HP Petrol Stationary Engine OHV 4-Stroke Horizontal Shaft Replacement Motor" from Edisons on ebay at $169 shipped (after 15% ebay discount).

    "Azusa Predator 212cc Engine Mounting Plate - 5" x 12" from AmazonAU for $46.23 shipped.

    "HIAORS 428 Drive Chain 102 Link with 5pcs Connecting Master Link" for $32 shipped on AmazonAU - possibly should have waited to get my driven cog before buying this chain.

    Some 25mm "Mask machine accessorie 45carbon steel shaft collar bushing stop screw type bearing retaining ring ID 8-32mm Set Screw M5 M6 M8" at $3.19 each with free shipping from aliexpress.

    "FL205 Transmission 2 Bolt Flange Housing and Bearing to suit 25mm shaft (pair)" from ebay for $43.95 the pair, shipped.

    "2420mm(242cm) Throttle Cable For 200CC 6.5HP 9HP 270CC Dune Buggy GoKart" for $18 and "2.5M Bike Bicycle Universal Front Rear Brake Wire Cable and Housing Set" for $13.39, both shipped, on ebay.

    "Front + Rear Disc Brake Caliper Pads Fit 47cc 49cc Mini Pocket Bike ATV Quad" mechanical brakes set for $32.60 shipped on ebay.
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    Comments (2)
    • I mentioned these wheels in one of my posts and was told I can’t use them as others in the UK have and they fail.
      The club may accept them for frontsI mentioned these wheels in one of my posts and was told I can’t use them as others in the UK have and they fail.
      The club may accept them for fronts only but I’d check further.
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    • Thanks Rabbit. I got them now, so they're a sunk cost. It'll take me some time, but I'll see how I go with them ...
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  •   Geoff reacted to this post about 2 years ago
    first purchase ... bought wheels! also researched where to get frame steel
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  • Austin 7 Special has been created

    Austin 7 Special

    Just dreaming at the moment - but dreams can come true!
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