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The inspiration for this build is the Blower Bentleys of the early 1930's. One of the most iconic car of the pre-war rac...

The inspiration for this build is the Blower Bentleys of the early 1930's. One of the most iconic car of the pre-war racers. The Blower Bentley was developed to replace the Bentley six, a huge and heavy car which Ettore Bugatti once famously referred to as "the world's fastest lorry"

The addition of the blower to the 130hp 4 1/2 litre engine, increased power to a massive 240hp, easily besting the power made from the Six but with a fraction of the weight. But whilst the power was formidable, it came at the cost of reliability. Bentley’s Racing Manager, Nobby Clarke once said: “The Blower eats plugs like a donkey eats hay”.

AC/DC singer and car enthusiast Brian Johnson cited the 4½ Litre Le Mans as the best car he'd driven: "The first time I saw it, everything went north on us, except me jaw – that went south. I just had to have it. That car, I think, is a masterpiece… It was ludicrously expensive – I mean, just crackers."

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  • Brooklands Bentley uploaded a new video
    Bentley4 1/2 Liter Style "Old Number one"
    Seems like I'm not the first to make a Bentley. This one is rather nice looking and built by Frank Bankonin in Germany.
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  •   Brooklands Bentley commented on this post about 5 months ago
    Brooklands Bentley uploaded a new video
    Bentley Blower Junior
    The Bentley Blower Jnr is an 85% scale, reinterpretation of the iconic 1929 Bentley Blower while embracing modern sustainability.

    At the forefront of innovation, the Bentley Blower Jnr combines cutting-edge performance and unwavering safety, redefining the concept of a scaled car with a thrilling, eco-conscious driving experience
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    • This is kinda cool and a bit like the Pembleton T24 in that its a modern take on a pre-war car. The Bentley Blower Junior is an 85% scaled downThis is kinda cool and a bit like the Pembleton T24 in that its a modern take on a pre-war car. The Bentley Blower Junior is an 85% scaled down version of the original and has an electric power plant. Seating configuration is very much like a CycleKart with a centrally mounted single seat, but the larger scale allows for a passenger seat behind the driver. It's a really cool thing, but the price tag of $175,000 is verging on ridiculous.  More ...
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  •   Brooklands Bentley commented on this post about 5 months ago
    Managed to score a set of four wheels from Marketplace today. Just $75 too. Looks like CK No. 2 might eventually become a reality. Already have some steel for the chassis and tyres that I previously picked up. Just need to keep an eye open for an engine
    • Yeah couldn't believe it. Seemed almost too good to be true. Funny thing was when I picked them up from the fella he said these were the 'last ones'.Yeah couldn't believe it. Seemed almost too good to be true. Funny thing was when I picked them up from the fella he said these were the 'last ones'. Turns out he had heaps of wheels from his Grandpas business that he'd been selling off. Only wish I'd stumbled across the advert earlier.   More ...
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    • I pick up about 3 weeks back A 17 inch wheel that look like Honda wheel but the hub is 10 mmm smaller and 35mm bearing 10mm axle with a tyre fromI pick up about 3 weeks back A 17 inch wheel that look like Honda wheel but the hub is 10 mmm smaller and 35mm bearing 10mm axle with a tyre from China sow I think it Chonda wheel it only cost $5.00  More ...
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    • Wow. $5 is a bargain. If only everyone could find $5 wheels I think we'd have a lot more Cyclekarts. I'm guessing that you could make that work withWow. $5 is a bargain. If only everyone could find $5 wheels I think we'd have a lot more Cyclekarts. I'm guessing that you could make that work with a different bearing maybe?  More ...
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    • I struggled to get a full matching set. Several wheels that I bought where damaged or rusted. A couple had different centres and/or spokes, and soI struggled to get a full matching set. Several wheels that I bought where damaged or rusted. A couple had different centres and/or spokes, and so the final front wheel is the result of a rim and centre from two different wheels that I re-laced with new spokes.  More ...
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    • Nice job!! The thought of re-spoking a wheel is the stuff of nightmares lol. I'm pretty sure that if I attempted it I'd end up in a right old mess.
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  •   Hugh reacted to this post about 7 months ago
    Mail Call...

    Received another couple of pieces to the puzzle. This is a Ryobi One DIY adaptor and DC-DC converter to reduce the 18volts down to 12volts. This allows you to use a Ryobi battery for the power (electric start / lights / horn etc).

    I noticed these parts listed in Steve Vinsons Amazon list that was linked to from his YouTube...
    Mail Call...

    Received another couple of pieces to the puzzle. This is a Ryobi One DIY adaptor and DC-DC converter to reduce the 18volts down to 12volts. This allows you to use a Ryobi battery for the power (electric start / lights / horn etc).

    I noticed these parts listed in Steve Vinsons Amazon list that was linked to from his YouTube videos. It seemed like an elegant solution to a problem I was yet to encounter so I searched for the same parts listed locally on eBay and placed an order.

    If anyone is interested here's the parts I purchased.

     https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/314275469574
     https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/383495785534

    The battery holder needs some kind of bracket to stop it from rattling around but that should not be too much of an issue.
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  • Mick uploaded a new video
    Biggest Bentley Race in 100 Years
    In a nod to the legendary Bentley Boys, Car & Classic raced their very own Bentley 3/4½ Litre as part of Benjafield's Racing Club centenary celebrations at Le Mans.
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  •   Brooklands Bentley commented on this post about 5 months ago
    So with the recent talk of a local event I've been inspired to get back into my Cyclekart build and make an effort to get it finished. so I've ordered the final bits and bobs I need including the engine starter kit which arrived yesterday.

    The kit looks straightforwards enough, but doesn't come with any documentation. It includes a new...
    So with the recent talk of a local event I've been inspired to get back into my Cyclekart build and make an effort to get it finished. so I've ordered the final bits and bobs I need including the engine starter kit which arrived yesterday.

    The kit looks straightforwards enough, but doesn't come with any documentation. It includes a new flywheel, flywheel cover, starter motor, control box and magneto. I need to dig out the engine to take a look at how it all goes together and maybe find some documentation online.

    To drive the starter motor I've also ordered a battery adaptor and DC-DC converter to allow Ryobi One batteries to be used. This is a pretty convenient setup as I have a bunch of Ryobi batteries. I also ordered a hydraulic line for the brake caliper and master cylinder I have as well as a pair of headlights.

    Interestingly, when I look at Cyclekarts, many (most) do not have headlights. I think that with the Bentley the oversized headlights are one of the defining features so elected to buy some. Will see how they look when fitted.

    So next steps are to dig everything out and take check. I still have to finish the rear axle but already have the parts required to do that, I'm also thinking of redesigning the rear part of the chassis. Originally I was using a straight chassis design with the axle running through the chassis but am now thinking of a dropped chassis section running from the middle to the rear with the axle mounted above the rear section. This hopefully solves another issue I was having relating to the engine and torque converter mounting which just wasn't working out as I wanted.

    Lowering the rear of the chassis will allow the engine to be mounted lower which will give more options for the torque converter orientation.

    Well that's the plan. I'll know more once I've had a chance to dig everything out and do some mockups.
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    • the guy from USA upgrading the engine and i am not a expert .
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    • Just thinking about general toolroom taper fits like drills and mill tooling
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    • Don't think this is the same guy but a pretty good explanation -  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5Z6wkCUaY0
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    • Which headlights are you going to fit? I am planning on fitting removable mudguards, running boards and headlights to my MGTA.
      How did you go withWhich headlights are you going to fit? I am planning on fitting removable mudguards, running boards and headlights to my MGTA.
      How did you go with the electric start kit. I have fitted the same kit with a dash mounted key start. I'll take some photos and post them if you would like.
        More ...
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    • I haven't had a chance to fit this yet. Unfortunately been flat out with house renovations so the CK has had to take a bit of a back seat.

      I didI haven't had a chance to fit this yet. Unfortunately been flat out with house renovations so the CK has had to take a bit of a back seat.

      I did pick up some headlamps from ebay, I'll take a photo next time I'm out in the workshop. From memory they are Massey Ferguson Tractor headlamps and about 5" in diameter so scale quite well.
        More ...
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  •   Brooklands Bentley commented on this post about 2 years ago
    A little while ago I picked up a tinmans bick, (also known as a tinmans stake). I've been looking for one of these for a few years. I was fortunate enough to be able to trade this for a tool I had two of. It's essentially a small anvil for forming tin or sheet metal. They come in a variety of different forms depending on the specific job. This...
    A little while ago I picked up a tinmans bick, (also known as a tinmans stake). I've been looking for one of these for a few years. I was fortunate enough to be able to trade this for a tool I had two of. It's essentially a small anvil for forming tin or sheet metal. They come in a variety of different forms depending on the specific job. This one has grooves in it to help form wire rolled edges.

    My plan is to wire roll the edges of the panels on the bodywork in some of the areas such as around the cockpit. I have previously done this way back in my apprenticeship and so decided to see if I could remember how to do it.

    You start off bending a small return lip in the panel and then dress the metal around the wire using the groove in the stake. It's not a difficult process but would be almost impossible to do without the stake. You can of course make a similar tool using a block of steel and a file or mill or something similar, but there's something very satisfying about finding and using old tools like this.

    One of the main reasons for building the cyclekarts is to try and fine hone my metal shaping skills. I guess this is one step closer.
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    • You've got a fine result just with that rusty test piece (?). Great to have tools like that and use them well after all their years of use.
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    • Thanks. This was just a bit of scrap I had laying around. I need to try again using aluminium as ultimately I think steel would be too heavy.Thanks. This was just a bit of scrap I had laying around. I need to try again using aluminium as ultimately I think steel would be too heavy. Unfortunately I've never really worked with aluminium. Whilst it is easier to form, it is also a lot easier to leave marks in and so is less forgiving in that regard. Plus you have to anneal it whilst working. Not a hard thing to do, but just another consideration that you don't have with steel.

      I've collected many metal forming tools over the years many of which I've put to use making repair panels, but I've always wanted to have a go at building something from scratch. I've been following the work of Chris Runge for a few years now. (  https://rungecars.com/ ) I love the work that he does, very inspiring. Definitely a bucket list thing for me. Don't know if it will ever happen however as even building a cyclekart is a massive challenge lol.
        More ...
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  • It's been a long while since I posted anything to my build. Unfortunately I've been recovering from spinal surgery this past year so I've been very limited in physical ability as I get fatigued very easily. As a result I have had to choose my activities accordingly.

    I noticed that after an absence of practically a year there does seem to be a...
    It's been a long while since I posted anything to my build. Unfortunately I've been recovering from spinal surgery this past year so I've been very limited in physical ability as I get fatigued very easily. As a result I have had to choose my activities accordingly.

    I noticed that after an absence of practically a year there does seem to be a lot more interest on the FB page than the last time I was there. That's a great sign. It means interest is starting to build momentum. Now we just need some finished Cyclekarts and some events to travel to.

    Back to the subject of cyclekarts and more specifically mine. Unfortunately it got packed away a while back when I had a big clear out of the workshop. So there's nothing to report progress-wise. Things are pretty much the same as they were the last time I posted a year back.

    I did make a handbrake mechanism for another project of mine - a Porsche 356 speedster. But amusingly, having made it from photos without a real one to measure from I got the scaling a little wrong and it turned out a bit too large. I need to make a new one in the correct dimensions so this one is surplus to requirements.

    Looking at the photo of the Bentley on my project page, I think that it might make a good hand brake mechanism for the Cyclekart. I will need to extend the handle and make up a slightly different release mechanism, but I'm sure I can make it work. Another small piece in the puzzle.

    One good thing that did come from the workshop cleanup is that my mill is now properly installed, so I really have no excuse for not finishing off that rear axle. Well apart from needing a suitable sized cutter that is. I'll take a look on fleabay and see what I can see.

    I'm still very limited with what I can physically do, but it seems with the increased interest in cyclekarts, now is a very good time to get back into it and get a bit of activity happening on the website.

    "Build it and they will come".
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  •   Les reacted to this post about 8 months ago
    Managed to find a bit of time to finish off the rear hub and broach the keyway. The keyway is cut using a broach which runs in a guide inside the hub. I had to machine the guide to suit the hub diameter, then it was simply a case of pressing the broach through the hub using lots of cutting oil. The broach is spaced out on successive passes...
    Managed to find a bit of time to finish off the rear hub and broach the keyway. The keyway is cut using a broach which runs in a guide inside the hub. I had to machine the guide to suit the hub diameter, then it was simply a case of pressing the broach through the hub using lots of cutting oil. The broach is spaced out on successive passes using shims until the final depth is achieved.

    Next job is to finish machining the rear axle. I have to mill a slot to accept the key and turn threads on the ends for the axle nuts.
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  • Brooklands Bentley uploaded 8 photos in the album Wheels
    Comments (1)
    • Finally got me a set of wheels. I picked up these wheels from a fella in Murray Bridge. They are 17" postie bike wheels. Two fronts and two rears.Finally got me a set of wheels. I picked up these wheels from a fella in Murray Bridge. They are 17" postie bike wheels. Two fronts and two rears. One of the rears is actually a C90 wheel (I think) which is a tad narrower, but not by much. They could do with a clean up as they have a bit of surface rust on them but at least I now have some wheels.   More ...
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  • Brooklands Bentley has been updated
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  • Managed to scrounge half an hour on the cyclekart this evening. I laid out some string to take a look at what I needed to do to get the steering arms made up. The string helps to plot a line from the front steering pivots through the center of the rear axle. The steering arm pivots must fall on this line for the correct ackermann angles.

    I...
    Managed to scrounge half an hour on the cyclekart this evening. I laid out some string to take a look at what I needed to do to get the steering arms made up. The string helps to plot a line from the front steering pivots through the center of the rear axle. The steering arm pivots must fall on this line for the correct ackermann angles.

    I needed to make a curved arms so that on full lock the arms do not interfere with the front beam. I found some suitable flat bar from the scrap pile and set about bending it to make up a couple of arms. I used some heat on the inside of the bend to help 'shrink' the metal. This is better than applying heat to the outside of the bend which will 'stretch' the metal. Shrinking the metal in this way means that the metal is actually thicker on the inside of the bend, which makes it stronger. I also had to straighten it out a little on my bench anvil just to remove some minor kinks from the heating and bending.

    The arms will also need to be reinforced with a small gusset underneath to give it some added strength. I will also add a steering stop to prevent the wheel from touching the body, this will be a simple hard stop that the steering arm comes into contact with at the end of its movement. Hopefully I should be able to cut the flat bar in the middle of the bend and make an arm for the left and right sides.
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  • Finally got around to making a start on the rear axle. I worked out the length, cut the bar stock down and turned one end to size in the lathe. I still need to do the other end and cut some threads in the ends. The drive hub, bearings and wheel hub now fit perfectly.

    I also made a start on the motor mount. I cut some plate to span between two...
    Finally got around to making a start on the rear axle. I worked out the length, cut the bar stock down and turned one end to size in the lathe. I still need to do the other end and cut some threads in the ends. The drive hub, bearings and wheel hub now fit perfectly.

    I also made a start on the motor mount. I cut some plate to span between two cross members, this will support the motor. I'm still trying to figure out the best way to set up the chain drive. I rotated the torque converter downwards to see how the path of the chain was to the drive pulley, but it clashes with the cross member. Need to finalise this before I can move on. So slow progress, but progress none-the-less.
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  •   mainlinemick commented on this post about 4 years ago
    Forgot to post about this. I found some cool looking gauges when I was having a sort through some parts the other day. They came supplied with another project I bought. I'm not going to use them on the other project as they don't really fit with the style, but I think they will look great on the cyclekart. Might even try and hook up the speedo.
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  •   mainlinemick commented on this post about 4 years ago
    Did a bit more on the cyclekart yesterday. Managed to get the front wheels fitted up. I made up some 20mm spacers on the lathe to space the wheel out a little from the pivot so that the hub did not bind when the wheels were turned. I also had to add a spacer to the outside of the wheel as the bolts I used were a little too long. I pressed the...
    Did a bit more on the cyclekart yesterday. Managed to get the front wheels fitted up. I made up some 20mm spacers on the lathe to space the wheel out a little from the pivot so that the hub did not bind when the wheels were turned. I also had to add a spacer to the outside of the wheel as the bolts I used were a little too long. I pressed the new bearings into the hubs and mounted the wheels up.

    I checked the steering range, which seems fine, although I will lose a little of this when it is finally connected up. Next is to finalise the rear axle location so that I can determine the correct ackermann angle for the steering arm geometry.

    I also took delivery of the 6mm broach that I ordered. This is for broaching the keyways into the rear hubs. Now I have no excuses not to get the rear axle finished (although I've actually ordered some different bearings ).

    Also spent a bit of time trying to figure out the correct dimensions and proportions for the layout. I'm about 80% with that.

    The kids showed a bit of interest too, which was cool. I think that now it has some wheels on it and it's on the stands they can visualise it a bit better. They were both keen to try it out. I'll also confess that I did too
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  • Worked up the enthusiasm to do something for the cyclekart project this evening.

    I've been selling off some stuff to try and clear some space in the garage. One of the main aims was to clear enough space to get the cyclekart chassis up on some trestles and get the motor mounting and rear axle sorted out. So tonight I managed to clear enough...
    Worked up the enthusiasm to do something for the cyclekart project this evening.

    I've been selling off some stuff to try and clear some space in the garage. One of the main aims was to clear enough space to get the cyclekart chassis up on some trestles and get the motor mounting and rear axle sorted out. So tonight I managed to clear enough space to get the chassis up and at a nice height to work on.

    With the chassis up in the air, I offered the engine and rear drive sprocket up on the chassis only to realise that the rear cross brace is in the way. I will probably have to remove, move or modify the rear cross brace on the chassis as it clashes with the drive sprocket. This is as a result of using a slightly shorter chassis rail than the plans specified. I did this so that I could get two side rails from the standard length of RHS.

    It's no big drama really. I've still got plenty of welding on do on the chassis as I need to make and weld in the remainder of the cross bracing for the floor and underside so I will figure something out for the rear section.

    I also think I need to get a side profile of my tribute car sorted out so that I can scale the dimensions and figure out where I need to put the bulkheads and top cowl support loops. Getting the proportions right is going to be important.

    But whilst talking and thinking about what I need to do is all very well, I still need to find the time to actually do some work proper. The only actual work I did tonight was to flip the bearings in their holders so that the collars were on the 'outside'.

    Hopefully now that I have it in a position where I can actually do some work I will now be able to grab the odd hour here and there and make some progress.
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  • Been a bit too sidetracked by Christmas and other things to get any progress on the project. I did manage to do a few little jobs, but no major progress since picking up the wheels.

    I picked up some 6mm end mills and M25 nuts + nylocks the other day, which means that I now have no excuse not to finish off my rear axle. When I say 'finish off...
    Been a bit too sidetracked by Christmas and other things to get any progress on the project. I did manage to do a few little jobs, but no major progress since picking up the wheels.

    I picked up some 6mm end mills and M25 nuts + nylocks the other day, which means that I now have no excuse not to finish off my rear axle. When I say 'finish off the axle' I actually mean somehow turn the length of 1" steel I bought into something that more resembles an axle. I need ot machine 6mm slots for the keyways and turn threads on the ends for holding the wheels on. I also picked up some bolt on axle collars which I *think* I might use as the inner location for the wheels. What I overlooked with the axle / wheel setup is that a 25mm shaft with a 25mm hub has no shoulder against which the hub can sit, so the axle clamps should hopefully solve this oversight. I assume that this is how they are set up on go karts.

    I still have to figure out a few details on how to bolt everything up but I'll probably just wing it like usual. What can go wrong?

    I really need to have a clearout of the workshop to create some space to get the kart up on trestles so that I can work on it. At the moment there is zero space. Time to move some stuff on.
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  • Picked up the wheels today, very stoked with how they have come out. I had the rims blasted and powder-coated in satin black and then had some new tyres fitted. The wheels have been the most expensive part of the build so far, but then there are four of them and I had refurbishment costs on top of the purchase cost of the rims and tyres. I'm...
    Picked up the wheels today, very stoked with how they have come out. I had the rims blasted and powder-coated in satin black and then had some new tyres fitted. The wheels have been the most expensive part of the build so far, but then there are four of them and I had refurbishment costs on top of the purchase cost of the rims and tyres. I'm not entirely sure if I have ended up saving money by going down the path that I have, which was my original goal, but none-the-less, I'm very happy with the final outcome, as to me they look more 'vintage' than new or shiny wheels would have.

    For anyone else sourcing rims, I think that the cheapest option is probably to start off by purchasing better condition rims with good usable tyres to avoid the refurb and tyre replacement costs but it might take a while to find two pairs for a reasonable price, and then there's always the risk that you are going to end up with miss-matched tyres. I could have probably shopped around and got some cheaper tyres or ordered some online and got them fitted locally, but it was convenient to use Don and such convenience has a cost.

    New 17" rims with knobbly tyres are about AU$180 on ebay, but those are moto-x fronts and not postie bike rims and so have knobbly tyres and a bit more of a modern look to them. It does look like some of the fellas in the US are using these however so they are another option.

    So if you're just getting into collecting parts for your build, wheels are going to be the big ticket item so it is worthwhile keeping in eye on Gumtree ads or finding someone who parts out postie bikes.

    So what was the cost? Here's the final tally (excluding my machining work)

    $50 - Initial purchase price (Gumtree)
    $80 - Blasting and powder coating (Aluminium hubs were wet blasted)
    $125 - Supply and fit tyre (including valve / rim tape + spoke repairs)

    In total this has worked out at $255 per rim.

    I used Associated Gritblasters in Edwardstown for the blasting and powder coating. 83741979. They came under recommendation and I was not disappointed. I'll definitely get the chassis and suspension parts done there when I'm ready. It's worth noting that they have a surcharge for EFTpos so cash is king with these fellas.

    Don at DC Motorcycles sourced and fitted the tyres as well as fixed some broken spokes. He's in Marion. 83775566
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  • Got the front suspension kinda mounted up. I welded on the front spring hangers and made up some keeper plates for the U-Bolts. I did a bit of a test fit (even though I didn't get to finish the rear hangers) it looks pretty good and also looks like the axle line is higher than the centre of the chassis, which is great as it means that I can...
    Got the front suspension kinda mounted up. I welded on the front spring hangers and made up some keeper plates for the U-Bolts. I did a bit of a test fit (even though I didn't get to finish the rear hangers) it looks pretty good and also looks like the axle line is higher than the centre of the chassis, which is great as it means that I can mount the rear axle above the chassis to help get the C of G down lower.

    To mount the springs up I had to fabricate some eyelet bushes. I decided to make these from some rubber radiator hose and a metal spacer. It's not the most elegant of solutions, but should work okay. If I come across some urethane bar stock I'll make some new ones but I recon these will do just fine.

    I need to make up some steel spacers to weld into the chassis rail to take the rear spring hanger pivot bolts. The rear spring hangers need to be bolted in relatively tightly as any play will result in the spring flopping around and a loose front axle. Given that this is 1930's technology we are playing with, it can use all of the help it can get. Handling is expected to be poor at best.

    The rear spring hangers have been cut, I just need to profile the ends and drill a couple of holes, then that's it for the front suspension.


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  • Managed to scrape half an hour on the cyclekart this arvo.

    I pressed the old bearings out of the front hub on one of the wheels. Well I tried to drift them out but there was no purchase on the inside so I ended up punching the seals and bearings out of one side so tat I could get a drift to them. The new bearings are a perfect fit (6202.2RS...
    Managed to scrape half an hour on the cyclekart this arvo.

    I pressed the old bearings out of the front hub on one of the wheels. Well I tried to drift them out but there was no purchase on the inside so I ended up punching the seals and bearings out of one side so tat I could get a drift to them. The new bearings are a perfect fit (6202.2RS Bearing - 35x16x11)

    I note that the shaft is a little longer than it really needs to be. This was simply the only 5/8" UNF bolt that my local hardware store had in stock so that's what I ended up with. I need to turn down some spacers to get it to fit properly. Need to figure out the wheel spacing from the king pin. It seems logical to me to have it as close as possible, but need to confirm this. Aesthetically they would look better a little spaced out but will see.

    The only other thing I managed to get done was drilling some holes in the spring hanger brackets. I also spent a bit of time searching for something suitable to make spring bushes from. I think some rubber radiator hose and a spacer will do the job. Just need to find or make a suitable spacer.



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  • Managed to get a few hours this arvo to finish off the front beam and suspension, I'm pretty happy with how it came out.

    The leaf springs needed the leaves tying together. I think that normally they are drilled and pinned but as the springs I made are only 1" wide I decided not to drill them for fear of weakening them too much. Instead I ran...
    Managed to get a few hours this arvo to finish off the front beam and suspension, I'm pretty happy with how it came out.

    The leaf springs needed the leaves tying together. I think that normally they are drilled and pinned but as the springs I made are only 1" wide I decided not to drill them for fear of weakening them too much. Instead I ran a bead of weld along the outside to hold the leaves together. I then bent some flat bar around the spring to both cover the weld and hold the spring together. I think they've come out pretty good, I'm very happy with them. To finish them off I welded up the eyes on the end to give them some extra strength.

    The beam and kingpin mountings that I had made previously just needed to be welded together. To do this I had to set everything out so that the kingpins had some castor angle and a little bit of camber. The caster angle is what helps the steering return to the centre and a little bit of camber helps with grip.

    After laying everything out on the welding bench and setting the angles I tacked everything together before welding it up. I added some spring perches to the bottom of the beam to allow the springs to sit correctly. The width of the chassis puts the springs directly on the edge of the lower bends on the front beam, which would have made them impossible to bolt on properly. So to fix this I welded some small lengths of angle iron so that they sit parallel to the ground. This give the springs a nice flat area to mount to.

    All I have to do now is make some keeper plates for the U bolts, turn down some bushes, weld the spring hanger brackets to the chassis and then I can get the beam mounted up. There's still the steering arms to sort out, but I will not be able to make those up until the rear axle is in place and the steering column has been made.

    When the front beam is mounted I will be able to see how the axle sits relative to the chassis, which will then tell me where I need to mount the rear axle. Would be good to finally get it on four wheels and rolling.

    There's a bunch more photos in the gallery if you are interested in how I made the beam and leaf spring.

     https://cyclekarts.com.au/build-pages/1-micks-cyclekart-build/albums/23-suspension-and-steering



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  • Brooklands Bentley uploaded 28 photos in the album Suspension and Steering
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    • I started making up the hubs for the rear wheels today. I turned down some spigots on the lathe with a 1" bore. I also bored a hole into a piece ofI started making up the hubs for the rear wheels today. I turned down some spigots on the lathe with a 1" bore. I also bored a hole into a piece of plate to accept the spigot.

      The spigot will be welded into the plate. Once welded I'll put the complete assembly back into the lathe to machine the OD to fit the wheel.

      I know that I could have bought these, or got the plates laser cut, but I kinda like making things. It's my zen.
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  • Managed to squeeze a few minutes build time in yesterday. Drew up some front spring hangers and made a few cardboard templates to figure out a design that I liked. This is what I ended up with. Now I just need to make another three.
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